“What’s the story behind the grass?” you ask, pointing to a vibrant hillside. It’s one of many richly carpeted hills you’ve noticed since your arrival. They are impossible to miss, not only because the flashes of green pop in this busy city but also because the steep hillsides are dotted with smiling people who seem to be enjoying nothing more than the sunshine and soft grass.

“It’s our king,” the driver answers. He goes on to explain that the installation of parks and other green spaces has been part of a huge project designated by King Mohammed VI to modernize the city. “Tanger Métropole,” he says, and then adds in English, “the Metropolis of Tangier project”.

You Google the project and are amazed to discover the massive infrastructure project that ranges from ports to trains to schools and childcare centers. You had no idea that Tangier was so modern. Everything you read before your trip spoke of its rich history and its “storied” past. And while you can’t wait to visit the American Legation and see firsthand the “only US National Historic Landmark located in a foreign country” and “oldest piece of property owned by the United States abroad”, something else excitedly comes to life in your mind. Tangier is more than you thought it was. 

And oh, how true you find that be!

Over the next four days, you discover Tangier. Yes, you visit the American Legation and see the famous document, in which Morocco was the first foreign country to recognize the United States in 1777. True, you visit the famous Cape Spartel to view where the Atlantic and Mediterranean merge below. Of course, you visit the Ibn Battouta museum in honor of the famous Moroccan explorer and scholar whose travels exceeded even that of Marco Polo.  And yes, you view Spain from afar while having cocktails on the rooftop of a luxury villa and learn all about the spies and intrigue during World War 2 when Tangier was an International Zone shared by eight countries.

But you also experience the chic, modern Tangier.

Classy lunches at a new restaurant on the marina or at the 5-star cliff-side hotel where celebrities like Leonardo DiCaprio and Lionel Messi have stayed? Sure, but what about the best bowl of split-pea soup you’ve ever tasted on the street food tour and the freshly-caught sole you had for dinner at a corner restaurant recommended by your personal guide?

Was your family happy? Well, they returned from their day out shopping with the guide and their arms were loaded with sacs full of their “finds.”

“Perfect for Spain,” your daughters had announced to your initial confusion.

“We’re taking the ferry over tomorrow,” your wife explained. “It’s only a 1-hour ride.”

Tangier is the meeting point of Europe and Morocco, and true to its international reputation, it also offered up new friendships and business opportunities from distant locations. The French family who invited you to visit them in Nice. The Dutch woman renovating a mansion in the old town owned by golden-age Hollywood starlet. The Moroccan man who owns commercial property for rent in Morocco’s Free Zone.

“Americans love Tangier,” he had said, a twinkle in his eye. “It’s busy and ambitious but knows when to slow down and enjoy itself. You’ll see. You’ll be back to expand your business here once you see the numbers.”

The night you dream you’re sitting on a vibrant green carpet of grass overlooking the new port.

“Do you see that?” a young Moroccan girl asks you.

You squint your eyes.

“Just ahead,” she says, pointing.  “There. It’s the future.”

And you finally understand—truly understand—the grassy hillsides dotted with smiling people.

To start planning your visit to Tangier, click here!

Sources:

Tangier : Tales of pirates, diplomacy and espionage frame America’s liaison with the exotic city https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/tangier-59652494/ 

Welcome to the American Legation in Tangier, Morocco https://legation.org/

History of the U.S. and Morocco https://ma.usembassy.gov/our-relationship/policy-history/

Cape Spartel  https://www.lecapspartel.com/en/cap-spartel

La métamorphose de Tanger https://www.comptoirdesvoyages.fr/blog-voyage/maroc/la-metamorphose-de-tanger/mar